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02.20.2004
I land in Pittsburgh,
and can feel the strength of my destiny. I leave Europe behind
me with naught but contempt: adieu to you, land of my
birth, strangler of talents! You are no friend to the artist.
You are a place of calcified class, of snobbery and falsely
gained expertise. I forsake thee, Escoffier Ecole de Gastronomie
Française! I forsake thee, Ecole Supérieure
de Cuisine Française Groupe Ferrande! I go to seek
my fortunes here in America, where a man can be whatever he chooses,
where one is not bound by the fortunes of his father or who it
is who knows who else. I shall earn my way to the top, and you
shall rue the day you let me free.
~
I have secured my first
employment! I am now a pensioneé of the McDonalds
in Lyndora, Pennsylvania. Oh, I know the curiously muddled reputation
the restaurant enjoys in my native land. But I maintain my open
mind, while those who turned me away from the traditions of my
country may not. I have left it all behind, including the sharp
judgments of others. I have personally never had the opportunity
to dine at a McDonalds, but, after all, much of le cuisine
is pleasing the common man, is it not? Were they of poor quality,
surely they should not have proved so durable, so popular. I
am intrigued especially by this, the "McNuggets".
I had originally thought
to begin my duties as a préparateur, perhaps slicing
the vegetables in advance of the evening's dinner crowd. How
bold, how arrogant of me! I may as well have asked to be made
a saucier from my first day. Instead I have been vouchsafed
the rôle of "mop and bucket man", which apparently
entails the cleaning of the dining area. I would have thought
this to be the purview of the waiters, but I am too fresh still
to ask questions.
~
The duties of préparateur
elude me still. I have learned these last few weeks that the
staff zealously guard their assigned tasks; if I had a nickel
for every time Jorge has told me to keep my hands away from the
deep-fryer, I should be able to afford to restore my telephone
service. (Which, by the way, has already led to some trouble;
I have already been "written up" by the head chef,
Merrill, for arriving late to my shift. I attempted to phone
and tell him I had simply lost track of time while wrestling
with a particularly thorny section of the Larousse Encyclopédie
Gastronomique, but as I say, the service has been terminated
for non-payment.)
I am learning much, though,
about the intricacies of the life of an American restauranteur,
simply by observation. The staff here are largely of the opinion
that I do not speak English, or, for that matter, Spanish, and
I have gleaned much from watching them quietly in unguarded moments.
The proper defrosting times for Salisbury-hamburgers, the appropriate
percentages of lettuce to onion, the fact that the saucier
is in fact referred to as a "modular assembler"
all this and more have I learned. To no great use, I have also
learned that local ruffians leave ghastly messes in the lavatory.
Patience, Henri! Patience and time!
~
Ricardo, the saucier,
has befriended me since learning that I am not retarded and can
in fact speak both of the two languages he knows. He is a great
man, a truly devoted chef who has yet to earn the name
only because of petty politicking being played by the assistant
manager and the fellow who runs the griddle. Ricardo is, like
all great restauranteurs, devoted to the service of the
patron, and often confesses to me that he will add extra pickles
or reduce the admixture of catsup and mustard without letting
on, in hopes of giving a superior dining experience to his guests.
He wears his cap and vest with pride, unlike the slatterns at
the front with their insouciant postures and bare mastery of
the colorful pictograms which make up the brunt of their duties.
Mark my words: when I open my own bistro, there shall be no
place in my employ for them! Well, perhaps Carlene, the one
with the frosted hair.
Sometimes Ricardo will
ask me if I think it is funny that we call them French fries.
I reply that in my country they are called pomme frites,
and are in fact Belgian in origin. This alternately amuses and
perplexes him.
~
It cannot be all for naught, it cannot be! Liberty has turned
to helplessness, freedom to poverty, and hope to a canola-oil-flavored
ash in my mouth. All my work, all my eight months as the most
decorated mop-and-bucket man in the history of Lyndora #12459
have come to a bitter end.
It began when Maria Theresa,
the evening line cook, announced her imminent departure on a
maternity leave. Sensing my chance, I lobbied Merrill vociferously
for a chance to take her place. To hell with Ricardo, I thought!
To hell with propriety, with seniority, with the rigorous caste
system I hoped to leave behind! I shall prove myself here and
now. Told that I would be given such a chance, I danced home
on weightless feet, knowing my moment was at hand.
I prepared a veritable
feast to show Merrill what I could do: classics, nouvelle,
bistro styles the entire gamut of contemporary French cuisine.
In the small modular plastic kitchenette did I create salade
Lyonnaise la Meunière, terrine aux herbes de Provence
Madame Cartet, poulet sauté aux echalotes a
dozen dishes, each with Henri's indescribable flair.
As it happened, all that
was needed was for me to take the Fry-Q test, and it turned out
that was the day the health inspector came to visit.
You have not defeated
me, o America. I shall not run again. I shall not flee my adopted
homeland, as I did my loved and hated France. I shall not be
moved. As long as there is an Applebee's in McKeesport -
and I am reliably informed there is I shall have my victory.
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