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03.08.2003
When you've been on staff
with the Ludic Syndicate Moronic Food Product of the Year Awards
Committee for a while, you learn to detect little things. Not
just like that even though Diet Pepsi Twist has stupider commercials
than Diet Coke with Lemon, you shouldn't drink the latter because
it tastes like liquid chemical ass; but that even though the
label of Safeway Select Diet Cola with Lemon looks like the label
for Diet Coke with Lemon, it actually tastes like Diet Pepsi
Twist. However, the most important thing you learn is: never
try and second-guess the food industry. They'll surprise you
every time.
Yes, it's time once again
for the Crappy Awards, the glamorous awards ceremony that grants
the beautiful Golden Crap Shack to the most overpriced, unhealthful,
pointless, foul, wasteful, unnecessary and all-around stupid
consumer food item of the year. Enough of the introductions --
let's go right to this year's five candidates!
1. Frito-Lay
Go-Snacks Funyuns Rings.
Snack chips have long
been one of the strongest contenders at the Crappys, and Frito-Lay
has long been the heaviest hitter in the snack chip world. With
nine Golden Crap Shacks to their credit, it sometimes seemed
that, like Alexander the Great, they had no worlds left to conquer.
They haven't fielded a serious candidate since 1999's daring
Color-Change Chee-tos. However, this year, they show why they're
the Jack Nicholson of moronic food products with this exciting
entry, based on the absurd notion that snack chips -- already
the crown prince of eat-'n'-toss consumerism -- aren't convenient
enough. The recipe? Take less than two ounces of snack chips.
Give them a pointlessly "fun" new shape. Put them in
a huge, wasteful plastic container, and sell it based on the
flimsiest possible pretext -- that now people can put their greasy
salty chips in a vehicle cup holder. And of course, for the crowning
touch, charge a ludicrous amount of money for them. There are
a number of available types of "Go-Snacks"; we chose
Funyuns because even in a plain, unglamorous plastic bag, Funyuns
taste horrible.
2. Herb-Ox
Instant Broth & Seasoning Spicy Chicken Bouillon.
One of the biggest misconceptions
about the Crappys is that they only focus on junk products --
flashy foods, kids' foods, gimmick foods, fast foods, convenience
foods. As this little number (discovered by one of our judges
while searching for a low-sodium chicken broth) proves, that's
just not true. Purporting to be a healthful food, it's in fact
stuffed to the gills with garbage; purporting to be a old-fashioned
mom-and-pop off-brand, it's in fact manufactured by monolithic
megacorporate food combine Hormel; purporting -- right on the
label, mind you -- to feature "real herbs - real flavor",
its ingredient list (featuring such country-cupboard standards
as dextrose, potassium chloride, maltodextrin, monoammonium glitamate,
propylene glycol, TBHQ, disodium inosinate, and disodium guanylate)
reads like a chemistry textbook. To top it all off, the Spicy
Chicken flavor tastes awful, which is quite a feat. It takes
a dedicated food chemist to screw up something as simple as soup
broth, but somehow the good folks at Herb-Ox pull it off.
3. Kraft
It's Pasta Anytime Rotini with Mild Cheddar Cheese Sauce Microwavable
Pasta & Sauce Meal for One.
Convenience is a favorite
theme of the voters. Given its dominance over the last 20 years,
it's obvious that a sure way to ingratiate yourself with the
Awards Committee is to introduce a particularly loathesome new
convenience product. What is it that makes convenience such a
popular theme? A number of things. A good convenience food will
have lots of wasteful packaging; it will, by virtue of its contents,
use enough preservatives to make it about as healthful as mainlining
Clorox; it will be ridiculously overpriced; and, most importantly,
it will be only marginally less convenient than just making the
product in question yourself. It's Pasta Anytime meets those
criteria in spades. It's less than 12 ounces of pasta in a huge,
shelf-hogging plastic box. It takes three minutes to prepare
in the microwave and seems targeted for people who find pasta
simply too difficult to fix -- in other words, for people who
can't boil water. It costs $3.29, for what is essentially a box
of macaroni and cheese -- something you can buy for fifty cents
in a box or two dollars fresh. And, astonishingly, it has a stupefying
1,860 milligrams of sodium, or fully 78% of the percent
daily value. Of course, simply eating a tablespoon full of salt
would be more convenient still, but that wouldn't make any money
for the Kraft corporation, now would it?
4. Oscar
Mayer Lunchables Brand Lunch Combinations: Soft Pizza Stix Mega
Pack.
Combo-packs, by virtue
of being overpriced, bad-tasting and of questionable quality,
have been a big contender at the Crappys for many years. Who
can forget 1995, when the Dunkin Donuts Kids Meal (a sugary soda,
two donuts, and two packages of M&Ms) swept the awards? The
good folks at Oscar Mayer know this, and their Lunchables line
has been a near-constant contender since they were first introduced.
But they never were able to get the exact product combination
that would win them the big nomination -- until now. Preparing
fat kids to become fat adults, the Mega Pack line boasts "40%
More Food": menacing enough to start with (this is over
a goddamn pound of processed crap), and even more so when
you taste what's inside. A package of CapriSun "Splash Cooler"
and a Twix bar, for the sugar junkie in ever child whets your
appetite, which is then completely crushed by the main course.
This is a couple of slabs of industrial flour byproduct mockingly
termed "breadsticks", which you are meant to dunk in
a plastic vat of "pizza sauce" and a packet of loose
mozzarelloid cheese product and eat cold. 62% DV sodium,
16 grams of saturated fat, and the obligatory ridiculous product
tie-in completes this absolutely appaling foodstuff.
5. Ore-Ida
Funky Fries Cinna-Stiks Crispy Seasoned Potatoes.
What "convenience"
is to crappy adult foods, "fun" is to crappy children's
foods. Apparently in the belief that children would rather starve
to death than eat foods that are not oddly shaped, amusingly
colored or capable of making unsettling noises, food manufacturers
have given the Crappy voters a lot to chew on lately with a virtual
plethora of pointlessly bogus "fun" products, of which
Funky Fries are the year's best. Originally considered a longshot
because they are neither horribly unhealthful nor unusually awful-tasting,
they won voters over by being inexplicably pricey and completely
pointless. They further made their case with a range of flavor
options, from the pointless (Kool Blue, fries colored a disturbing
neon blue) to the misbegotten (Cocoa Crispers, conceived in the
ill-considered belief that chocolate and potatoes go together).
And as if the dopey Jimmy Neutron tie-in wasn't enough, it's
actually co-branded with Heinz EZ Squirt Ketchup, whose pointless
purple 'flavor' was a 1998 Crappy winner. So misguided is the
combination of potatoes, sugar and cinnamon that we selected
the Cinna-Stiks flavor as our champion of this excellent product
line.
AND THE WINNER OF THIS
YEAR'S CRAPPY IS: Oscar Mayer Lunchables! Overpriced, horribly
unhealthful, and guaranteed to put kids on the road to diabetes
and sloth, they are truly the creme de la crap!
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